The bolts on Trespassing Direct were plated steel bolts mixed with stainless steel hangers and all bolts were in various states of corrosion due to the mixed metals. These have been replaced with 12mm glue-ins donated by the ASCA.
The first bolt was moved left approximately 6 inches in order to adhere to UIAA edge distance recommendations. The original bolt placement was approximately 5 inches away from the edge of the arete which increases the chances of a critical failure due to structural weaknesses in the rock that may be exacerbated by the proximity to an edge.
One of the original anchor bolts snapped during extraction and was unable to be removed. The anchor configuration was changed to a vertical offset as a consequence of this. I’m waiting on a shipment of stainless steel chain that once I’ve received I’ll use to equalize this anchor setup.
