The anchor on Two-Pitch route lagged behind the protection bolts in terms of getting a replacement. I had been waiting on stainless chain before I replaced it. After replacing the bolts with glue-ins there was a temporary cord anchor in place between the glue-in bolts while I figured out how to replace the existing chain anchor with rap rings, as we don’t currently have a solution to build lower-offs off of glue-ins.
The problem was that the left bolt in the original configuration used an even number of links in order to establish the equalized height. That would cause a ring to potential twist so I wanted to solve the problem with rap rings in the proper plane. After some trial and error on the floor in my apartment I worked out that 9 links of 5/16″ chain with two 5/16″ quick links and 5 links of 3/8″ chain with one 3/8″ quick link and one 5/16″ quick link would be the closest combo.
So here is the new updated anchor with permanent stainless components as well as a comparison photo of the original lower-off anchor and the temporary cord anchor. You can see that one of the original quick links was almost unscrewed all the way. This was probably a result of not being properly tightened with a wrench when installed and being subjected to the load/unload cycles of lower-offs and top-rope sessions.
