82 Crag continuation

Lots of the work at the 82 Crag this past week.

On Sunday Block Party was completely re-bolted save for the few wedge bolts that were there. These were checked to make sure they weren’t spinners and torqued properly. The anchor was repositioned to be slightly higher and more to the right more properly dropping you over the mid-anchor if only rapping on a single rope (70m recommended). Also the top anchor was changed to an inline chainset to make things easier for the rap and retrieval. The left bolt on the mid anchor will be updated with a matching Raumer ring anchor hanger whenever I get a chance to climb that pitch next.

This evening I knocked out a bunch of smaller to-do items both on the Steep Wall and Main Face.

  • The anchor on Solarium was swapped out with an all stainless captive carabiner rig
  • The anchor on Crusty by Nature was swapped out to an all stainless equalized pig-tail rig
  • The increasingly problematic 5th bolt on Doggfather was replaced with a glue-in bolt. This bolt was pulled solely by spinning it with the drill. In over 200 bolts replaced, this is the first time I’ve seen this happen and it is somewhat disconcerting.
  • The old bolt holes on Doggfather were patched with epoxy
  • The 2nd to last bolt on Truffle Hog was pulled and replaced with a glue-in (video)

Here’s a video that covers the bolt on Truffle Hog.

One thought on “82 Crag continuation

  1. Hi, I’m collecting best practices for route development at Thacher State Park in NY (see http://www.climbthacher.org).

    We’re thinking about using pigtail lower-offs and notice that you are equipping some of your routes with the same.

    1. What’s your experience with the pigtails and when do you prefer or not prefer them over rap rings or perma-biner, etc.
    2. Some of your routes have one lower-off while others have two pigtails. What’s your recommendation.

    Thanks.

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